FOOD CHEF

FOOD CHEF

Monday 22 November 2010

Flourless chocolate cake

Flourless chocolate cake

Ingredients

For the cake
  • 300g/10½oz plain chocolate, broken into pieces
  • 225g/8oz caster sugar
  • 175ml/6fl oz boiling water
  • 225g/8oz salted butter, cut into cubes, plus extra for greasing
  • 6 free-range eggs, separated
  • 1 tsp instant coffee powder
  • 2 tsp vanilla extract
For the topping
  • 200ml/7fl oz crème fraîche
  • 255g/9oz summer berries
  • 1 tbsp plain chocolate, grated
  • Icing sugar, to dust

Preparation method

  1. Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas 4.
  2. For the cake, grease and line the base of a 23cm/9in springform tin with baking parchment.
    Technique: Greasing and lining cake tins
  3. Blend the chocolate and sugar in a food processor until a fine powder forms. Add the boiling water, butter, egg yolks, coffee powder and vanilla extract and blend until well combined.
  4. In a clean bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks form when the whisk is removed, then, using a metal spoon, gently fold into the chocolate mixture.
    Technique: Whisking egg whites
  5. Pour the mixture into the prepared cake tin and bake for 45-55 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean.
  6. Remove the cake from the oven and allow to cool in the tin, then transfer to the fridge for 2-3 hours.
  7. To serve, remove the cake from the tin and place on a serving plate or cake stand, spread the crème fraîche on top, then scatter over the berries. To decorate, grate some chocolate over the top, or dust with icing sugar.


    Hot chocolate

    Hot chocolate
    The Hairy Bikers show you how to make a creamy cup of hot chocolate, perfect for a cold winter’s day.

    Ingredients

    • 1 vanilla pod, split and seeds scraped out
    • 1 cinnamon stick
    • 1 litre/1¾ pints milk
    • 150g/5½oz plain chocolate, chopped into small pieces
    • sugar, to taste
    • freshly grated nutmeg, for dusting

    Preparation method

    1. Heat the vanilla pod and seeds, cinnamon stick and milk in a saucepan until boiling.
    2. Remove the pan from the heat and add the chocolate pieces, stirring until the chocolate melts.
    3. Whisk the hot chocolate vigorously until frothy on top and add sugar, to taste. Serve with a dusting of nutmeg.

      Tea

      Tea All tea is made from the processed leaves and buds of the evergreen ‘Camellia sinensis’ bush. There are a huge variety of teas, however, generally classified by the size of the leaves and the way in which they’re treated. The flavour will vary according to the conditions in which the tea is grown, the soil and climate, the way the leaves are harvested and the manner in which they’re processed after picking.
      The tea most widely drunk in the UK is ‘black’ tea. Its characteristic colour and powerful flavour come from the fermentation or oxidation process by which it’s produced. The majority of black tea goes into blends such as English breakfast tea; commercial blends can contain up to 30 different teas. A few varieties are famous in their own right, such as assam and darjeeling. Flavoured teas - black tea flavoured with ingredients such as jasmine, chrysanthemum, dried fruit or fruit oils – are also available.
      Tea is grown in India, Sri Lanka, East Africa and China. The teas produced by each country have unique properties: Kenya, for example, produces excellent, bold-flavoured black tea that is much used in blends, while well-flavoured, bright and strongly coloured Malawi tea is popular for blending.
      Tea can be used in cooking to soak dried fruit, make syrups for poaching fruit or to smoke fish and poultry.


      Café crème

      Ingredients

      For the sabayon and parfait
      • 8 free-range egg yolks
      • 100g/3½oz caster sugar
      • 250ml/9fl oz sweet, fruity dessert wine, such as Monbazillac or Beaume de Venice
      • 1 gelatine leaf, soaked in cold water for 10 minutes, squeezed dry
      • small pinch cayenne pepper
      • 1-2 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
      • 200ml/7fl oz whipping cream, whisked until soft peaks form when the whisk is removed
      • 50ml/2fl oz coffee essence
      • 8 free-range egg yolks
      • 100g/3½oz caster sugar
      • 250ml/9fl oz sweet, fruity dessert wine, such as Monbazillac or Beaume de Venice
      • 1 gelatine leaf, soaked in cold water for 10 minutes, squeezed dry
      • small pinch cayenne pepper
      • 1-2 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
      • 200ml/7fl oz whipping cream, whisked until soft peaks form when the whisk is removed
      • 50ml/2fl oz coffee essence
      For the coffee cup and saucer
      • 600g/21¼oz dark chocolate (70 per cent cocoa), finely chopped
      • 1 tbsp vegetable oil
      • 600g/21¼oz dark chocolate (70 per cent cocoa), finely chopped
      • 1 tbsp vegetable oil
      For the ganache 'sugar cubes'
      • 300ml/10½fl oz double or whipping cream
      • 300g/10½oz dark chocolate (70 per cent cocoa), finely chopped
      • 4-5 tbsp demerara sugar
      • 300ml/10½fl oz double or whipping cream
      • 300g/10½oz dark chocolate (70 per cent cocoa), finely chopped
      • 4-5 tbsp demerara sugar
      To serve
      • 4 x 5cm/2in diameter sponge cake rounds
      • 50ml/1¾fl oz strong espresso coffee, cooled
      • 2 tbsp caramel syrup
      • 4 x 5cm/2in diameter sponge cake rounds
      • 50ml/1¾fl oz strong espresso coffee, cooled
      • 2 tbsp caramel syrup

      Preparation method

      1. For the sabayon and parfait, whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in a large heatproof bowl until pale and fluffy.
      2. Add the wine, then set the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and continue to whisk for 3-4 minutes, or until the mixture is pale and has thickened (the temperature of the mixture should reach about 78-80C/175F).
      3. Whisk in the soaked gelatine leaf until dissolved, then remove the bowl from the heat and whisk again.
      4. Add the cayenne pepper and lemon juice, to taste, then continue to whisk until the mixture has cooled slightly. Set aside until completely cool.
      5. Whisk one-third of the whipped cream into the cooled sabayon mixture, then carefully fold in the remaining cream until just combined.
        Technique: Folding
      6. Chill the sabayon in the fridge for at least two hours, or up to 12 hours.
      7. Remove three-quarters of the chilled sabayon from the fridge and reserve the rest.
      8. Fold the coffee essence carefully into the sabayon until combined.
      9. Spoon the mixture into four 5cm/2in dariole moulds, levelling the top with a palette knife (any extra can be spooned into a freezerproof container). Freeze for at least 3-4 hours or overnight, until solid.
      10. For the coffee cup and saucer, reserve 100g of the chocolate, then melt the rest of it in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water).
      11. Using a sugar thermometer, heat until the chocolate is 55C then remove the chocolate from the pan, quickly stir in the reserved chopped chocolate and cool, stirring to disperse the heat. Place the bowl back over the pan of water and heat again until the thermometer reads 32-33C.
      12. Keeping the chocolate at a steady temperature, place a 7cm/3in x 15cm/6in piece of very clean acetate on to the work surface, and using a small palette knife, spread some chocolate onto the acetate, so that it's just 1-2mm thick.
      13. Take a 5cm/2in wide piece of plastic pipe or ring mould and, place the chocolate lined acetate into each tube, chocolate side innermost. Pull the join apart slightly so it fits the pipe tightly. Using a little chocolate on your finger, cover over any gap in the join.
      14. Put the tubes onto a parchment-lined tray to set (NB: do not place in the fridge - this will make the chocolate bloom or whiten). Repeat with three more pieces of acetate to make four tubes.
      15. Lightly oil the back of a small saucer with a little vegetable oil, then take a large piece of cling film and set the saucer into the centre of the sheet. Lift up all four corners, then twist together, expelling any air and creases from the base of the plate.
      16. Check the temperature of the chocolate - it should be 32-33C. If necessary, place the bowl back over the pan of hot water to heat to the correct temperature.
      17. Holding the cling film as a tail, dip the base of the saucer lightly into the melted chocolate. Using the side of a finger, brush off any excess chocolate, so the coating is 2-3 mm thick.
      18. Wipe your finger around the edge of the saucer to create a lip - about 2mm in from the edge of the saucer.
      19. Place the saucer cling film-side down onto the baking tray to set. Repeat the process with three more saucers (or more if you want, as some may break when trying to remove the cling film).
      20. To make the cup handles, take a small piping bag and fill it with the tempered chocolate (NB: before doing this check the temperature of the chocolate. If it's too cold, gently heat the bowl over a pan of hot water to return it to 32-33C).
      21. Line a baking tray with non-stick parchment. Pipe elaborate S shapes with the chocolate onto the tray, then pipe over them again to give double thickness. Repeat three more times (or more, in case of breakages).
      22. Place all the chocolate shapes aside for at least 5 hours to fully set.
      23. For the ganache 'sugar cubes', place the cream into a saucepan, bring to the boil then remove from the heat.
      24. Add the chocolate, stir well and return to a low heat until the chocolate is fully melted.
      25. Line a small square or rectangular tray with cling film. Pour the chocolate ganache into the tray then cover and place in the fridge. Leave to set for at least 6 hours, or until solid.
      26. Turn the ganache out of the tin and remove the cling film. Using a hot knife, cut into small cubes then drop into the demerara sugar and toss to coat on all sides.
      27. Carefully peel the cling film away from the china saucer.
      28. Heat a palette knife (if using hot water, make sure the knife is completely dry) and run it around the outside edge of the saucer to give a smooth finish. Place the saucer in the centre of the serving plate.
      29. Lift the chocolate tube out of the plastic tube and carefully peel away the acetate.
      30. Heat a frying pan until hot, then very briefly hold the end of the chocolate tube onto the frying pan to melt slightly.
      31. Press the melted end of the cup into the centre of the chocolate saucer, pressing down lightly so they stick together.
      32. Take a chocolate handle and place the edge briefly onto the hot frying pan and the press lightly against the join on the cup, holding in place until stuck to the cup.
      33. To serve, dip a small sponge round into the cold coffee then place carefully into the bottom of the cup.
      34. Remove the moulds from the freezer and dip into hot water to loosen the parfait. Run a blunt knife around the inside of the mould, then insert a knife into the centre of the parfait to remove it from the mould, then carefully slide it into the cup.There should still be a gap of about 0.5cm/¼in to the top of the cup.
      35. Carefully spoon the reserved sabayon onto the top of the parfait then swirl with caramel syrup.
      36. Place two chocolate ganache cubes on the edge of the saucer with a spoon alongside.
      37. Repeat the process with the remaining three cups and serve immediately.


        Chocolate delice

        Ingredients

        For the base
        • 100g/3½oz toasted hazelnuts
        • 100g/3½oz caramelised sugar pieces
        • 150g /5¼oz bran flakes, slightly crushed
        For the delice
        • 325ml/11½fl oz full-fat milk
        • 140ml/5fl oz double cream
        • 2 free-range eggs
        • 340g/12oz good-quality dark chocolate, minimum 60 per cent cocoa solids, roughly chopped
        For the caramel hazelnuts
        • 125g/4½oz caster sugar
        • 8 hazelnuts, shells removed, lightly toasted in a dry frying pan
        For the coffee foam
        • 200ml/7¼fl oz strong black espresso coffee
        • 1 sheet gelatine, soaked in cold water for 10 minutes, drained
        To serve
        • 2-3 tbsp cocoa powder
        • 1 tbsp freshly ground coffee beans

        Preparation method

        1. For the base, blend the hazelnuts and caramelised sugar pieces in a food processor until you have a smooth paste. Heat the paste in a small pan on a gentle heat until warmed through.
        2. Place the bran flakes and warmed praline paste into a mixing bowl and scrunch them together, using your hands, until the bran flakes have broken down and been incorporated into the paste.
        3. Line a baking tray with a sheet of greaseproof paper, then transfer the praline mixture onto it. Cover the praline mixture with a second sheet of greaseproof paper, then roll the mixture out until it measures at least 14cm x 20cm/5½in x 8in and is 0.5cm/¼in thick.
        4. Remove the top sheet of greaseproof paper, then push a 14cm x 20cm x 3cm/5½in x 8in x 1¼in rectangular pastry frame down onto the praline mixture and trim off any excess. (NB: The excess praline mixture can be pressed into any gaps in the mould, if necessary.)
        5. Cover the mould with greaseproof paper and chill the praline in the fridge for 30 minutes, or until set.
        6. Meanwhile, for the delice, heat the milk and cream in a saucepan and heat gently over a medium heat until it just reaches boiling point.
        7. Meanwhile, whisk the eggs in a bowl.
        8. As the milk and cream mixture comes to the boil, pour it over the eggs, then whisk the mixture constantly until smooth and thick.
        9. Stir in the chopped chocolate and whisk again until the chocolate has melted and the custard is smooth.
        10. Remove the base from the fridge and pour in the chocolate delice to fill the mould. Gently tap the sides of the mould to release any trapped air bubbles, then smooth the surface using a palette knife. Chill in the fridge for 6-12 hours, or until completely set.
        11. Meanwhile, for the caramel hazelnuts, heat the caster sugar in a pan over a low heat, stirring occasionally until golden-brown and caramelised. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly. (NB: The caramel is cool enough when a cocktail stick dragged across its surface leaves an imprinted trail.)
        12. Spear each hazelnut onto a cocktail stick, then dip the hazelnuts into the caramel until coated. Stick a little adhesive putty onto the underside of a shelf or cupboard above a worksurface and secure the cocktail stick into the putty, so that the caramel drips off the hazelnut and creates a tail. (NB: Place a baking tray or sheets of greaseproof paper underneath the hazelnuts to catch any caramel that drips.)
        13. Set the caramel hazelnuts aside to cool and harden for at least 30 minutes.
        14. For the coffee foam, just before serving, heat half of the coffee in a pan until just hot but not boiling.
        15. Squeeze the gelatine sheet dry, then add it to the hot coffee and continue to warm until the gelatine has completely dissolved.
        16. Pour the remaining cold coffee into a bowl, then add the hot coffee mixture to it. Whisk well until the mixture starts to foam.
        17. To serve, heat the outside of the mould using a chefs' blow torch to loosen the base of the delice. Carefully remove the pastry frame from the delice.
          Technique: Caramelising sugar with a blow torch
        18. Heat the top of the delice very quickly using a chefs' blow torch to make the surface glossy. Dust the delice with some of the cocoa powder and ground coffee beans.
          Technique: Caramelising sugar with a blow torch
        19. Smear a teaspoonful of the coffee foam across the width of six to eight serving plates. Plunge the blade of a knife into boiling water to heat the metal, then slice the delice into six to eight pieces and place one onto each smear of foam, at an angle. Rest a caramel hazelnut against each slice. Dust each serving with the remaining cocoa powder.


          Chocolate mousse

          Ingredients

          • 175g/6oz dark chocolate (70 per cent cocoa solids), chopped
          • 110g/4oz butter, cut into cubes
          • 3 large free-range eggs, separated
          • 2 tablespoons of either rum, brandy or espresso coffee (according to preference)

          Preparation method

          1. Melt the chocolate slowly in a heatproof bowl over a pan of barely simmering water.
            Technique: Melting chocolate
          2. Remove the bowl from the heat and add the butter. Stir until melted and combined.
          3. Add the egg yolks one by one, stirring constantly.
          4. Add either the rum, brandy or espresso coffee (depending on your preference).
          5. Whip the egg whites until soft peaks form when the whisk is removed, then gently fold them into the chocolate mixture.
            Technique: Whipping cream by hand
          6. Transfer the mousse to small cups or ramekins and refrigerate overnight, or until ready to serve.

            Pigeon with parsnip purée, cassis sauce and coffee foam

            Ingredients

            For the cassis sauce
            • 200ml/7fl oz red wine
            • 50ml/2fl oz port
            • 6 juniper berries
            • 1 bay leaf
            • 600ml/1 pint pigeon stock (replace with dark chicken stock if necessary)
            • splash of cassis
            • 100g/3½oz butter
            For the parsnip purée
            • 3 large parsnips
            • 1 medium potato
            • knob butter
            • 3 tbsp olive oil
            • 60ml/2fl oz chicken stock
            • 120ml/4fl oz double cream
            • salt and freshly ground black pepper
            For the Swiss chard
            • 200g/7¼oz Swiss chard
            • 2 tbsp duck fat
            • salt and freshly ground black pepper
            For the coffee foam
            • 150ml/5fl oz chicken stock
            • 150ml/5fl oz full-fat milk
            • 1½ tsp lecithin (available from health food stores)
            • 1½ tsp instant coffee
            • 6 tbsp cream
            • 150ml/5¼oz double cream
            • cinnamon stick
            • pinch salt
            For the potato rösti
            • 4 Maris Piper potatoes
            • knob butter
            • 2 tbsp olive oil
            • fleur de sel
            • freshly ground black pepper
            For the pigeon
            • 8 pigeon breasts
            • salt and freshly ground black pepper
            • knob butter
            • 1 tbsp olive oil

            Preparation method

            1. Place the red wine in a pan with the port, juniper berries and bay leaf. Cook until the liquid has reduced by half.
            2. Add the stock to the pan and cook until reduced a little further to the desired thickness. Keep warm.
            3. For the parsnip purée, peel the parsnips, cut out the core and cut into smallish chunks. Peel the potatoes and cut into smallish chunks.
            4. Heat the butter and oil in a frying pan. Add the potatoes and parsnips and fry for about five minutes.
            5. Pour in the chicken stock and simmer until the vegetables are tender.
            6. Add the double cream and cook until almost completely reduced.
            7. Remove from the heat and leave to cool for a few minutes. Using a hand-blender, blend the vegetables to a purée, before passing through a sieve into a clean pan. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
            8. For the Swiss chard, wash the Swiss chard and remove the tough white stalks. Dry thoroughly and set aside.
            9. For the coffee foam, place the chicken stock in a pan and cook until reduced by half.
            10. Add all other coffee foam ingredients to the pan. Heat through and reserve until needed.
            11. Preheat the oven to 160C/300F/Gas 2.
            12. To make the rösti, peel the potatoes and grate them onto a clean tea towel.
            13. Squeeze the tea towel and potatoes over a sink until most of the moisture has been squeezed out. Heat a large frying pan to a low to medium heat and add the butter and oil.
            14. Place a 7cm/2.8in metal cutter or chefs' ring in the pan and a thin layer of potato inside. Carefully remove the cutter to leave a neat round of potato. Repeat this to get eight rösti from this quantity of potato - you may need to cook the rösti in batches. Fry gently until golden-brown, before carefully turning over to cook on the other side.
            15. Remove the rösti from the pan and transfer to kitchen paper to drain. Season with pepper and fleur de sel. Keep warm until needed.
            16. Season the pigeon breasts with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Heat the butter and oil in an ovenproof frying pan and add the pigeon. Sear, turning once to ensure an even colour.
            17. Transfer to the oven and cook for about five minutes (this will give you very pink meat - cook the meat for a few minutes longer if you prefer your meat well done). Leave the meat to rest for 5-8 minutes in a warm place.
            18. To cook the Swiss chard, heat the duck fat in a pan, add the Swiss chard and fry until wilted. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
            19. To finish the red wine sauce, add a splash of cassis and whisk in the butter over a gentle heat, until smooth and glossy.
            20. To serve, spoon the parsnip purée across each plate, arrange the pigeon breast next to the parsnip. Arrange two rösti on each plate and place a mound of Swiss chard on the other side. Spoon the red wine sauce over the pigeon. Remove the cinnamon stick from the coffee foam. Use a hand-blender or cappuccino frother to froth up the coffee foam and spoon small amounts of the light foam over the dish.